The first flickers of the morning sun haven’t yet danced across the horizon when its amber eyes freeze in the glow of my headlights. Momentarily stunned, it shuffles its muscular body up a rocky Patagonian hill, looking back only once before disappearing high above an alpine ledge where the stark terrain merges with the brightening austral sky. I’m but 10 minutes away from my hotel, and I’ve already accomplished the biggest goal of my trip: catch a glimpse of the mysterious puma … (continue reading on CNN Travel).